Pura Vida
Costa Rica.
Volcanoes, cloud forest, & the slow hours in between.
A book of mornings written in mist.
Nine days between San José and the Arenal Volcano. Two travelers, the gentle violence of falling water, and the half-hour at a roadside soda where the trip really begins.
From the airport to the jungle, and back.
San José · Sarchí · La Fortuna · Arenal · Nayara · Heredia · Santa Ana · SJO.
A red-eye, a key drop, a bed.
Late-evening landing at SJO. The country waits until morning.
Keys at one. Pillow at two.
Ford Expedition. Decline CDW (Amex PCRP primary). Drive ten minutes west to Belén and sleep.
Coffee country, a painted oxcart.
Three hours west through the central valley. A workshop in Sarchí, lunch by the river at Doña María.
First eyes on a three-toed ambassador.
Small reserve on the edge of town. Naturalist guides spot what you'd miss alone. Then dinner at Don Rufino.
Cacao rows, a hand-roasted batch.
Family farm above La Fortuna. Walk the rows, roast a pound, finish with a tasting flight under the trees.
Four rappels. The longest, two hundred feet.
Lunch at the lodge first. Then harness, helmet, and the sound of falling water. Dinner at Anch'io after.
Throttle, river, mud to the elbow.
Single-rider quads on the volcano's working back roads. Burger lunch at Lava Lounge after.
Volcanic river. Pools at every temperature.
$158/pp pass through the gate, dinner at Los Tucanes included. Sunset, then four hours of soaking.
Up the cone. Eat well at breakfast.
$10 walk-in. Take Track 3 / Sendero Tabacón for the moderate ascent. Lunch at El Novillo with the cone out the back.
Across the canopy at eye level.
Suspension bridges, ten footbridges, a guide who spots the snakes and toucans. Hot springs at Manoa after.
Twelve cables, one waterfall.
The marquee cable flies directly over La Fortuna Falls. Closed-toe shoes. 264 lb limit.
Floating, reading, naps.
Five thermal pools at descending temperatures. Sunset at 5:45. Dinner at Chifa La Familia Feliz.
Pasture, then forest, then a small fall.
Working ranch in El Castillo. Sturdy criollo horses. WhatsApp to book the private tour: +506 8836-7187.
Casita with a deck. The gentlest hotel of the trip.
Walk the grounds — sloths in the cecropia, agoutis on every path, toucans clattering through breakfast. Dinner at Asia Luna.
A day on purpose.
Volcano Sound Bath or the couples Rainforest Massage. Email [email protected].
Infinity pool, palm shadows, twelve pink minutes.
Floating, sloth-spotting, the deliberate empty page in the book. Tasting menu at Altamira after dark.
Sloths, owls, toucans, pumas in long care.
Ethical sanctuary outside Heredia. $55/pp, 2 hours. Then dinner at Bacchus, Santa Ana.
South, slow, then a red-eye home.
Sleep over Nicaragua, wake over Mexico, land before sunrise. Pura vida.
Before you fly.
A short list of things that need handling before May 13. Phone numbers are tap-to-call.
Critical action items
- Confirm Alamo after-hours staffing — twice. 1 AM May 14 pickup + 11:30 PM May 21 return are both after-hours. Call +506 2242-7800 a week out, then again 24 hrs before. Get the rep's name in writing.
- Verify Amex PCRP. 1-800-338-1670. Coverage for SUV on unpaved roads. Enroll before rental starts (~$25 / 8 days).
- Don Tobías PRIVATE tour. Group cap 220 lb, private cap 253 lb. WhatsApp +506 8836-7187. Get written confirmation.
- Pure Trek harness fit. Waist ≤ 44" at navel, thigh ≤ 32". If over, email [email protected].
- Pre-book all tours in this order (sell-out risk descending): Tabacón pass · North Fields · Pure Trek 12 PM · Big AMA · Original Arenal ATV · Bogarín · Mistico · Don Tobías private · Toucan Rescue 1:30 PM.
- Nayara Springs spa 2–3 weeks out via [email protected].
- Download offline Google Maps for all of Costa Rica. AllTrails offline for "Mirador El Silencio."
Booking links
- Bogarín · bogarintrail.com
- North Fields · northfieldscr.com
- Pure Trek · puretrek.com
- Tabacón · tabacon.com
- Big AMA · arenalmundoaventura
- Mistico · misticopark.com
- Don Tobías · cabalgatadontobias.com · WhatsApp
- Original Arenal ATV · +506 2479-7522
- Toucan Rescue · toucanrescueranch.org
- Don Rufino · donrufino.com · +506 2479-9997
- Anch'io · +506 2479-7560
- Lava Lounge · +506 2479-7365
- El Novillo · +506 2479-1910
- Nene's · +506 2479-9192
- La Choza de Laurel · +506 2479-7063
- Bacchus · +506 2282-5441
Hotels
- AC Hotel Belén · marriott.com · +506 4036-1000
- Amor Arenal · amorarenal.com
- Arenal Manoa · arenalmanoa.com
- Nayara Gardens · nayararesorts.com
Emergency contacts
Insurance & payment
- Mandatory CR TPL/SLI at the counter (~$95). Cannot decline by law.
- Decline CDW/LDW. Amex PCRP primary.
- Decline tire / windshield / deductible add-ons.
- Pay on Amex Platinum for PCRP eligibility + Membership Rewards.
- Expect a $1,500–5,000 hold on the Amex when declining CDW.
- Mobile data: Verizon's 15 GB free in CR is plenty. Holafly eSIM as backup.
Pack list — May = rainy season starting
- Quick-dry clothes · closed-toe sandals / water shoes · hiking shoes · rain jacket · long pants for horseback · DEET 25–30% · mineral sunscreen · cash USD small bills.