Pura Vida May 13 — 22 · 2026
An itinerary, in chapters

Volcanoes,
cloud forest, & the slow hours in between.

Nine days between San José and the Arenal Volcano. Two travelers, a rented Expedition, and a book of mornings written in mist.

Days9
Nights8
Travelers2
The trip · day by day

Nine chapters, nine moods. Tap any to dive in.

Costa Rica airport runway lights at dusk
Tue · 13 May → Wed · 14 May
Day 01 · San José

A red-eye, a key drop, a bed.

The first night is just a runway, a parking lot, and a pillow. The country waits until morning.

You land late and the airport is the slowest part. By the time you've found the Alamo counter, signed the after-hours paperwork, and turned the key in a Ford Expedition, San José is asleep. Belen is ten minutes west, a clean Marriott bed, and the trip really starts tomorrow.

~11 PM

Land at SJO · AS1444 from LAX

CUSTOMS

Late evening arrival at Juan Santamaría. Have your passport, return ticket, and rental confirmation ready. Free Banco BAC ATM in the arrivals hall if you need colones.

1:00 AM
Confirm after-hours staffing twice

Alamo pickup · Ford Expedition

30 MIN

Counter is open 24/7 but staffing thins after midnight. Decline Alamo's CDW (Amex PCRP covers it). Accept the mandatory TPL/SLI (~$95 for 8 days, by law). Expect a $1,500–5,000 hold on the Amex.

Map Call Alamo Confirmed
8 KM · 10 MIN · SJO → AC HOTEL BELEN
1:30 AM

Drive to AC Hotel Belen, sleep

REST

Ten minutes west of the airport. Lock the car, leave bags packed for an early morning, and sleep. Tomorrow is a long drive.

Drive10 min
Stops3
Moodrunway · keys · sleep
Tonight · Night 1 of 1 AC Hotel San José Belén
Three-toed sloth hanging from a rainforest branch
Wed · 14 May
Day 02 · Belén → La Fortuna

Coffee country, then a three-toed ambassador.

A long drive west through Sarchí, an oxcart factory, lunch by the river, and afternoon eyes on a sloth.

The drive is the day's first activity. You climb out of the central valley, past coffee fincas in every fold of the hills, and stop in Sarchí for the painted oxcarts that everyone in Costa Rica grew up with. By the time the road bends north toward La Fortuna, the light is yellow, the windows are down, and the cone of Arenal is somewhere ahead.

9:00 AM

Breakfast at AC Hotel Belén

1H

Buffet downstairs. Coffee, gallo pinto, fruit. Eat enough for a 3-hour drive — the next solid meal is Sarchí.

10:00 AM

Check out, head west

15M

Bags in the Expedition. Fuel up before leaving Belén — Total stations in town are cheaper than Highway 1.

52 KM · 1H 20M · BELÉN → SARCHÍ
12:00 PM

Sarchí · oxcart factory + lunch

1H

Quick walk through the painted-oxcart workshop (15 min — buy a small one if you want a souvenir that's actually local), then lunch at Mariscos Doña María — fresh seafood, river-side, walk-in.

83 KM · 1H 55M · SARCHÍ → LA FORTUNA
2:45 PM

Check in · Amor Arenal

45M

Drop bags. The hotel sits on a ridge with a clear view of the volcano — your suite has a private hot tub on the deck. Bogarín is a 10-minute drive into town.

4:00 PM

Bogarín Trail · guided sloth tour

1H 30M

A small private reserve on the edge of town. Naturalist guides spot what your eye misses — three-toed sloths in the upper canopy, motmots, sometimes a kinkajou. $45 per person, max 8 in a group.

Sloth napping in the canopy, Puerto Viejo CR
Misty Costa Rican cloud forest understory
7:30 PM
Costa Rican · Fine Dining

Don Rufino

1H 30M

The town's grown-up dinner spot. Open-air bar in front, white tablecloths in back. Tenderloin in coffee glaze, cocktails that take their time. Reserve a few days ahead for the patio.

Costa Rican casado plate
Drive3h 15m · 135 km
Stops6
Moodoxcart · sloth · tenderloin
New hotel · Night 1 of 3 Amor Arenal — Volcano Suite
Sunlit coffee cherries on the branch
Thu · 15 May
Day 03 · La Fortuna

Beans, then the plunge.

Morning under coffee leaves, afternoon at the end of a rope, dinner where the kitchen knows our table.

The day starts gentle and ends loud. Coffee and chocolate at sunrise on a working farm in the North Fields, a quick rest at the hotel, then we trade the cup for a harness and rappel four waterfalls in the green throat of a canyon. By dusk we're on the porch at Anch'io, pretending we always eat this well.

7:00 AM

Breakfast at Amor Arenal

1H

Open-air dining room with a clear line on the volcano. Gallo pinto, fresh papaya, the espresso is good, the view is better.

12 KM · 22 MIN · TO NORTH FIELDS CAFÉ
8:30 AM

North Fields Coffee & Chocolate Tour

2H 30M

A small family farm above La Fortuna. Walk the cacao rows, roast a batch by hand, finish with a tasting flight under the trees. $43–46/pp, 15 max per group.

Coffee cherries ripening on the branch
Yellow cacao pod hanging on a tree
12 KM · 22 MIN · BACK TO HOTEL
11:00 AM

Light snack at Amor Arenal

45M

Pure Trek's pickup window is 11:45 AM–12:15 PM. Eat a small something — lunch is served at their base before the rappel begins.

12:00 PM
Measure waist (≤ 44") & thigh (≤ 32") before booking

Pure Trek · Canyoning Waterfall Rappel

5H

Four rappels, the longest at 200 ft, all into living water. Lunch is included at the lodge before you start. Plan to be tired in the best way.

La Fortuna Waterfall plunging through the jungle
Misty Costa Rican cloud forest
7:30 PM
Italian · Trattoria

Anch'io

1H 30M

Wood-fired pizza, handmade pasta, a candle on the table. Reserve ahead — they fill up by 7:00.

Wood-fired Margherita pizza
Drive~50 min
Stops5
Moodcacao · rappel · trattoria
Same hotel · Night 2 of 3 Amor Arenal — Volcano Suite
Tabacón Hot Springs waterfall, Costa Rica
Fri · 16 May
Day 04 · Arenal

Mud, then steam.

A morning of throttle on the volcano's back roads, an afternoon by the pool, and a long evening soaking in water heated by the same molten rock we've been circling all week.

This is the day the volcano gives you everything it's got — without taxing your legs. ATVs crawl along Arenal's working back roads, lunch is a wood-fired pizza at Lava Lounge, and after a slow afternoon at the hotel, Tabacón opens its gates for an unhurried sunset, dinner, and four more hours of thermal rivers.

7:00 AM

Breakfast at Amor Arenal

45M

Eat well, but don't linger — ATV pickup is at 7:50 sharp. Coffee in a to-go cup if you ask.

8:00 AM

Original Arenal ATV Tour

3H

Single-rider quads on the volcano's working back roads. River crossings, a viewpoint at the halfway, mud up to the elbow if you want it. $99 single / $130 double. WhatsApp the operator to book.

Off-road vehicle kicking up jungle mud
Off-road tracks through tropical jungle
SHORT DRIVE INTO TOWN · 10 MIN
12:00 PM
American · Casual

Lava Lounge

1H 15M

Open-air, fan-cooled, the kind of place you eat after doing something stupid. Burger, wood-fired pizza, lots of water. Walk-in friendly; call ahead if it's a Friday.

Open-air burger and fries
1:30 PM

Pool & siesta at Amor Arenal

3H 30M

Earned the slow afternoon. Use the private hot tub on your deck or the volcano-view infinity pool downstairs. Don't skip this — Tabacón runs until 10 PM and you'll want the energy.

15 KM · 25 MIN · TO TABACÓN
5:30 PM

Tabacón Thermal Resort · Sunset + Dinner Pass

4H 30M · 5:30–10 PM

A volcanic river runs through the property. Pools at every temperature, a swim-up bar, a quiet upper pool past the bridge. The $158/pp pass includes dinner at Los Tucanes. Last entry 6 PM, last call 10 PM.

Tabacón Hot Springs waterfall
Turquoise jungle pool surrounded by trees, Costa Rica
10:00 PM · 25 MIN · BACK TO AMOR ARENAL

La Fortuna Waterfall is intentionally skipped. The Big AMA zipline on Day 6 flies directly over it from a more dramatic angle.

Drive~75 min
Stops5
Moodthrottle · siesta · steam
Same hotel · Night 3 of 3 Amor Arenal — Volcano Suite
Arenal Volcano with its cloud-shrouded peak
Sat · 17 May
Day 05 · Arenal · Hotel switch

Up the cone, across the canopy.

Dawn lava fields, a steakhouse with a volcano view, then six hanging bridges through the cloud forest before sundown.

The most physically demanding day of the trip — eat a real breakfast. Mirador El Silencio puts you on cooled lava with the cone at your shoulder; Mistico walks you back through the canopy at eye level with the toucans. In between, you switch hotels.

Most physically demanding day. Bring AllTrails offline map for El Silencio — take Track 3 / Sendero Tabacón for the moderate ascent.

6:30 AM

Early breakfast at Amor Arenal

45M

Eat well — you're hiking lava field by 8. Ask the kitchen to pack two sandwiches for after the hike if you want a buffer before lunch.

18 KM · 25 MIN · TO MIRADOR EL SILENCIO
8:00 AM

Mirador El Silencio · volcano hike

2H 30M

$10/pp gate fee, walk-in 8 AM–4 PM. Three loop options; Track 3 (Sendero Tabacón) is the moderate ascent through old lava and mountain forest. Cell service is spotty — load AllTrails offline.

Arenal Volcano above lush forest
Misty Costa Rican cloud forest
Map Walk-in · $10/pp
11:00 AM
Steakhouse · Volcano view

El Novillo del Arenal

1H 15M

Open-air rancho with the cone of Arenal directly out the back. The tenderloin is what you came for; the chimichurri is generous. Early lunch beats the tour-bus crowd.

Grilled tenderloin steak
12:30 PM · CHECK OUT AMOR ARENAL · 12 MIN TO MANOA
1:00 PM

Check in · Arenal Manoa

45M

Drop bags, swap into hike clothes. Manoa's hot springs are included with the stay — you'll be back in them by sundown.

14 KM · 25 MIN · TO MISTICO PARK
2:00 PM

Mistico Hanging Bridges · Guided Naturalist

3H

Six suspension bridges and ten footbridges along a 3.2 km loop — canopy at eye level. The naturalist guide spots the snakes, frogs, and toucans you'd miss alone. $48/pp.

Aerial view of Costa Rican cloud forest canopy
Cloud-shrouded forest at Poás Volcano, Costa Rica
5:30 PM

Hot springs at Manoa

1H 30M

Five thermal pools at descending temperatures. Included with the stay. Don't skip the cool pool at the end — your legs will thank you tomorrow.

Hot springs pool with Arenal volcano view
7:30 PM
Costa Rican · Family-run

Nene's Restaurant · or Manoa on-site

1H 30M

A La Fortuna institution since the 80s. Casado, sea bass, fried plantain. If you're too tired to drive into town, the Manoa restaurant is honest and convenient.

Costa Rican casado at a family soda
Drive~75 min
Stops7
Moodlava · canopy · steam
New hotel · Night 1 of 2 Arenal Manoa & Hot Springs Resort
Aerial view of cloud forest canopy, Costa Rica
Sun · 18 May
Day 06 · La Fortuna

Twelve cables, one waterfall.

Morning at full speed across the canopy, an afternoon staying still in the hot springs, dinner that travels the whole Pacific in three courses.

Lighter day on purpose. You earned it. Big AMA threads twelve cables across the canyon and over the lip of La Fortuna Waterfall — the only way to see the falls from above without renting a helicopter. Then the rest of the day belongs to Manoa's pools.

Lighter day. Earned it.

7:00 AM

Breakfast at Manoa

30M

Buffet on the terrace. Eat light — you'll be inverted on the Tarzan swing within two hours.

7:30 AM
Closed-toe shoes required · 264 lb limit

Big AMA · 12-Cable Zipline

3H

Twelve cables, one Tarzan swing, one rappel — and the marquee cable flies directly over La Fortuna Waterfall. There's a steep platform hike to the first cable; pace yourself. Hotel pickup included.

Zipliner mid-air through forest canopy
La Fortuna Waterfall, Alajuela, Costa Rica
12:00 PM
Casual · Tourist-friendly

Rainforest Café

1H

Right in the center of town. Solid wraps, good iced coffee, fast service when you've got post-zipline shakes. Walk-in.

Tropical iced coffee in a glass
Walk-in Map
2:00 PM

Hot springs at Manoa · the rest of the afternoon

5H

Floating, reading, naps. The bar by the upper pool makes a respectable casado. Sunset over the cone is at 5:45.

Hot springs pool with volcano backdrop
Tabacón Hot Springs waterfall
7:30 PM
Costa Rican–Chinese · Walk-in

Chifa La Familia Feliz

1H 15M

Tico-Cantonese fusion that locals queue for. Chow mein, arroz cantonés, fried rice with plantain. Cash-friendly, walk-in only — get there early or wait.

Wok-tossed chow mein with vegetables
Walk-in Map
Drive~30 min
Stops5
Moodcanopy · float · chow mein
Same hotel · Night 2 of 2 Arenal Manoa & Hot Springs Resort
Horseback rider through tropical landscape
Mon · 19 May
Day 07 · La Fortuna · Hotel switch

In the saddle, then the garden.

Morning on horseback through pasture and forest, lunch at a Tico classic, afternoon at the gentlest hotel of the trip.

The trip downshifts. After horseback in the morning we move to Nayara, the resort that lets the rainforest come right up to the door — sloths in the trees, agoutis on the path, toucans clattering through breakfast service.

7:00 AM

Breakfast at Manoa

45M

Eat well, but light on the way out. You're on a horse for two and a half hours.

8:30 AM
Private booking required · group cap 220 lb

Cabalgata Don Tobías · Private Horseback

2H 30M

A working ranch in El Castillo with sturdy criollo horses and guides who actually ride. The 8:30 ride climbs through pasture, drops into forest, ends at a small waterfall. Pre-book the private tour via WhatsApp +506 8836-7187 or email — group cap is 100 kg / 220 lb. Expect $130–180/pp.

Arenal Volcano cone over green Costa Rican pasture
La Fortuna Waterfall in the Costa Rican jungle
12:30 PM
Traditional Costa Rican

La Choza de Laurel

1H 15M

Open-sided ranchón at the edge of town. Roast chicken, plantain, beans done right. Marimba sometimes plays. The kind of lunch that holds you to dinner.

Traditional Costa Rican casado
2:00 PM · CHECK OUT MANOA · 12 MIN TO NAYARA
2:30 PM

Check in · Nayara Gardens

30M

Casita with a deck. The bellhop will show you which trees the resident sloth uses — usually the cecropia near the lobby.

3:00 PM

Walk the Nayara grounds

2H

Resident sloths, agoutis on every path, toucans in the higher fruit trees. The orchid garden is small but real. Don't miss the suspension bridge between the two properties.

Sloth on a tree branch in Costa Rica
7:00 PM
Pan-Asian · Nayara on-site

Asia Luna

1H 30M

Sushi, tempura, larb. Ask for a deck table — the rainforest is loud after dark, in a good way. Reserve through the concierge when you check in.

Sushi plated, Pan-Asian dinner
Through hotel concierge Map
Drive~30 min
Stops6
Moodsaddle · sloth · sushi
New hotel · Night 1 of 2 Nayara Gardens — Casita
Turquoise jungle pool surrounded by trees, Costa Rica
Tue · 20 May
Day 08 · Nayara

A day on purpose.

Late breakfast, slow spa, the pool, the sloths, a quiet dinner. The deliberate empty page in the book.

Nothing on the schedule but the things you've forgotten how to do — read for two hours, swim until your fingers shrivel, watch the same sloth in the same tree for the entire afternoon. After six full days, you'll need this one more than you realize now.

A deliberately empty day. After 6 active ones, you'll need it.

9:30 AM

Late breakfast at Nayara

1H 30M

Sleep in. Pancakes with ginger syrup, the espresso flight, the toucans on the railing. Don't rush.

11:30 AM

Nayara Springs · Spa

2H

Pre-book 2–3 weeks out via concierge — spots vanish. Volcano Sound Bath or the couples Rainforest Massage are the staff picks. Email [email protected].

Hot stones for a Nayara Springs massage
Turquoise jungle pool, Costa Rica
Through hotel concierge Resort
2:00 PM

Pool, sloth-spotting, naps

5H

The infinity pool faces the volcano. The chaises in the orchid garden are quieter. Sunset is at 5:45 — the sky goes pink for about twelve minutes.

7:00 PM
Fine Dining · Nayara signature

Altamira

2H

The signature restaurant. Chef's tasting menu with wine pairing if you want a real night. Book through concierge as soon as you check in — Tuesday tables fill.

Plated tasting-menu course
Through hotel concierge Map
Drive0 min
Stops4
Moodspa · pool · tasting menu
Same hotel · Night 2 of 2 Nayara Gardens — Casita
Airplane wing over clouds at golden hour
Wed · 21 May → Thu · 22 May
Day 09 · Nayara → Heredia → SJO

South, slow, then a red-eye home.

Drive back across the central valley, an afternoon at a wildlife rescue, dinner in Santa Ana, and a midnight flight that lands in LAX before sunrise.

The trip ends the way it started: a long drive and a runway. But there's a real day in between — Toucan Rescue Ranch in Heredia, the kind of ethical sanctuary that does what it says, and a last good Italian meal in Santa Ana before you hand back the Expedition.

7:30 AM

Breakfast at Nayara

1H

A real one. You're driving most of the day. The kitchen will pack a sandwich for the road if you ask.

10:00 AM

Check out · Nayara

15M

Pay the incidentals, tip the cleaning crew. The bellhops will help you load — Expeditions hold a lot more than they look.

130 KM · ~3H · NAYARA → HEREDIA
1:30 PM
Reservation required · no walk-ins

Toucan Rescue Ranch · 1:30 PM tour

2H · $55/pp

An ethical rehabilitation sanctuary outside Heredia — sloths, owls, toucans, and pumas in long-term care, plus a small forest reintroduction loop. Book the 1:30 PM slot in advance; reservations are required.

Toucan with bright orange beak in the rainforest
Sloth hanging from a tree in Costa Rica
22 KM · 45 MIN · TO SANTA ANA
5:30 PM
Italian · Fine Dining

Bacchus · Santa Ana

2H 30M

An old colonial house turned candle-lit trattoria, fifteen minutes from the airport. Carbonara, branzino, a bottle of something Italian. The right last meal.

Italian pasta and pizza in a candlelit trattoria
9:00 PM · TOTAL STATION FUEL UP NEAR SJO
11:00 PM
Confirm after-hours return

Alamo return · 11:30 PM

30M

After-hours drop. Take photos of every panel, the dashboard fuel gauge, and the odometer before handing keys over. Get a printed receipt — they'll be ready for you if you confirmed.

12:55 AM
22 May

AS1351 · SJO → LAX

DEPARTURE

The red-eye home. Sleep over Nicaragua, wake up over Mexico, land before sunrise. Pura vida.

Drive~4h · 150 km
Stops7
Moodsloth · carbonara · runway
Pre-departure

Before you fly.

A short list of things that need handling before May 13. The checklist below is collapsible — tap a row to expand.

Critical action items

  1. Confirm Alamo after-hours staffing — twice. Both your 1 AM May 14 pickup and 11:30 PM May 21 return are after-hours. Call +506 2242-7800 a week out, then again 24 hrs before. Get the rep's name in writing via email.
  2. Verify Amex Premium Car Rental Protection (PCRP). Call 1-800-338-1670. Confirm coverage for full-size SUV (Ford Expedition) on unpaved roads. Enroll in PCRP before the rental starts (~$24.95 flat for primary 8-day coverage). Save the confirmation email.
  3. Book Don Tobías as a PRIVATE TOUR. Group cap is 100 kg / 220 lbs; private cap is 115 kg / 253 lbs. Email [email protected] or WhatsApp +506 8836-7187. Specify driver weight (246 lb / 112 kg) and request the private 8:30 AM ride for Mon May 19. Get written confirmation before paying. Expect $130–180/pp.
  4. Measure for Pure Trek harness fit. Hard limits: waist ≤ 44" at navel; upper thigh ≤ 32" at the widest point. Measure with a soft tape. If either is over, email [email protected] — they may suggest the Rainforest Falls tour with different gear.
  5. Pre-book all tours in this order (sell-out risk descending): Tabacón pass, North Fields, Pure Trek 12 PM, Big AMA, Original Arenal ATV, Bogarín guided, Mistico guided, Don Tobías private, Toucan Rescue 1:30 PM.
  6. Book the Nayara Springs spa 2–3 weeks before arrival via [email protected]. Volcano Sound Bath or Couples Rainforest Massage are the staff picks.
  7. Download offline Google Maps for all of Costa Rica + AllTrails offline map for "Mirador El Silencio Loop."
  8. Tabacón naming. "Tabacón Hot Springs State Park" doesn't exist — the resort is Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa. You're booked for the $158 day pass + dinner package, 5:30 PM session.

Insurance & payment

  • Mandatory CR TPL/SLI at the Alamo counter: ~$11.95/day, ~$95 for 8 days. Cannot decline — required by law.
  • Decline Alamo CDW/LDW. Amex PCRP is primary.
  • Decline tire/windshield/deductible add-ons. Overpriced; the card covers most.
  • Pay everything on Amex Platinum for PCRP eligibility and Membership Rewards.
  • Keep PCRP confirmation email accessible (printed or saved offline) at the counter.
  • Expect a $1,500–5,000 hold on the Amex when declining CDW. Make sure the card has headroom.
  • Mobile data: Verizon Unlimited Ultimate's 15 GB free in CR is plenty for 8 days. Holafly eSIM ($36.90 / 7 days unlimited) as backup.

What to pack

  • Quick-dry clothes — you'll get wet on canyoning, ATV, and possibly hot-springs walk-ins.
  • Closed-toe sandals or water shoes — required for Pure Trek and ATV.
  • Hiking shoes — for El Silencio.
  • Rain jacket / poncho — May is the shoulder of rainy season.
  • Long pants for horseback at Don Tobías.
  • Bug spray (DEET 25–30%) and mineral sunscreen (preferred for hot springs).
  • Underwater phone case if you want photos in the canyoning pools.
  • Cash USD in small bills ($1, $5, $20s) for tips.
  • Document copies: passport, US driver's license, PCRP confirmation, Amex Platinum, backup high-limit credit card.

Emergency contacts

Weight & fit reference (driver: 246 lb / 112 kg)

ActivityLimitStatus
Big AMA Zipline264 lb (300 with eval)✓ OK
Original Arenal ATV~310 lb✓ OK
Pure Trek Canyoning280 lb · waist 44" · thigh 32"! Measure
Don Tobías horseback (group)220 lb✗ Over
Don Tobías horseback (private)253 lb✓ Book private
Mirador El Silencio hikeNone
Mistico Hanging BridgesNone
Tabacón hot springsNone
Bogarín TrailNone
North Fields CoffeeNone
Toucan Rescue RanchNone